Fukamido: A Cafe & Restaurant in a 120-Year-Old Japanese House

On a Saturday morning, we head to a cafe called Fukamido (深見堂) after being invited to their opening the previous night at an English conversation meet-up. Our ears perk up when they mention coffee, and we don’t want to miss the opportunity to try out good cafes. It’s pouring out, a […]

On a Saturday morning, we head to a cafe called Fukamido (深見堂) after being invited to their opening the previous night at an English conversation meet-up. Our ears perk up when they mention coffee, and we don’t want to miss the opportunity to try out good cafes. It’s pouring out, a perfect day for a coffee indoors.

The café “Fukamido” is housed in a traditional Japanese house built over 120 years ago, with a featured menu specializing in western sweets and game dishes. The owner, Noriko Kurasumi, used her experience making pastries and cakes while working at an Italian restaurant in Fukuoka to create Fukamido’s savoury dishes of simmered wild boar and beautiful dessert dishes. These are so popular that people trek out to this remote countryside spot in Ajimu and just eat the food here, myself included.

One of the things that makes Japan so wonderful is its business zoning laws, allowing small business owners like Fukamido to set up a residence. The cafe is set up on the main floor of the building in a traditional style home, complete with tatami, paper sliding doors, and tokonoma (床の間), a built-in recessed space where artistic appreciation is displayed).

We order coffees but quickly notice the selection of dessert sets and give a few a try. Desserts don’t normally drive me to any location, but I’ll make an exception to Fukamido.

If you’re visiting during Oita’s grape season, you may be in for a treat of Fukamido’s Shine Muscat cakes, topped with Oita’s famous Shine Muscat grapes, one of the tastiest grapes I’ve ever tried. The Kabosu lime soda is the perfect complement to wash down your dessert and another opportunity to sample Oita’s many regional fruits.

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How to Get to Fukamido

Visitors will find it easiest to reach Fukamido by car, as there are little public transportation options that’ll take you through Ajimu town’s expansive network of country roads. From Beppu Station, it takes 40-50 minutes via car and 30 minutes from Usa station. While it may be a bit of a trek to reach Fukamido, the destination is well worth the effort for its tasty local cuisine, exquisitely simple sweets, and relaxed atmosphere, especially on a rainy day.

💓 Quick Japan Tips

💴 Cash: Some countryside buses/trains are cash-only (esp. Shikoku)—carry small bills + coins.

💳 WISE: Load JPY ahead of time and withdraw at convenience store ATMs.

🤳 eSIM: Easy internet setup. I recommend Saily (code MAIGOMIKA10 for 10% off).

🛜 Pocket Wi-Fi: Great for groups/heavy data (Sakura Mobile / Japan Wireless).

🚗 Car rental: Best for scenic rural areas—book ahead (Toyota / Budget / Nippon).

💓 Quick Japan Trip Tips

💴 Cash: Many rural places still prefer cash—carry small bills + coins.
💳 WISE: Load JPY ahead of time and withdraw at convenience store ATMs.
🤳 eSIM: Easy internet setup. I recommend Saily (code MAIGOMIKA10 for 10% off).
🛜 Pocket Wi-Fi: Great for groups/heavy data (Sakura Mobile / Japan Wireless).
🚗 Car rental: Best for scenic rural areas—book ahead (Toyota / Budget / Nippon).
🚞 Transit: Some countryside buses/trains are cash-only (esp. Shikoku).

💴

WISE Card + Cash

Cash is still king in the countryside. WISE helps you load JPY ahead of time, avoid bad exchange rates, and withdraw at convenience store ATMs.
Get a WISE card for 9 USD 0.00!

🤳

eSIM for easy internet

No SIM swapping needed — eSIMs are fast, affordable, and simple. I recommend Saily.
Use code MAIGOMIKA10 for 10% off your first order!

🛜

Pocket Wi-Fi (for groups or heavy data)

A portable hotspot for multiple devices. For great service in Japan, I recommend:

🚗

Car rental (highly recommended outside cities)

Public transit can be limited in rural areas. Booking ahead saves time and gives you clear English terms.
English-friendly rental websites: Toyota Rent a Car, Budget Car Rental, and Nippon rent-a-car.

🚞

Quick rural transit note

Even if you have Suica/Pasmo, some local buses and train lines still take cash only — keep small bills + coins handy.

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2 thoughts on “Fukamido: A Cafe & Restaurant in a 120-Year-Old Japanese House”

  1. What an awesome cafe! I love the illustration ? how did you get the photo to blur out the employee? I think that’s a cool feature!

    1. It really was a lovely café. Really good coffee too! I took the picture with a low shutter speed, meaning that it was open for long enough to capture movement. You have to stay still enough so that the whole image isn’t blurry, so steady hands needed here!

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