My love affair with Kurokawa Onsen (黒川温泉) began three years ago. During our first visit to Japan in 2016, Jesse and I randomly stopped on a page in our Lonely Planet guide to a mountain hot spring village in Kumamoto Prefecture. Our journey began with bus and train transfers from Fukuoka Prefecture. Winding through quiet mountain ranges, we eventually arrived at what I can only describe as a fairytale setting. Traditional ryokan inns clung to the river’s edge, tucked away in a secret mountain valley.
Our booking at Yamabiko Ryokan would also be our first foray into the world of luxurious ryokan stays in Japan. Having the six private baths at our disposal felt like the epitome of indulgence, accompanied by intimate dining and traditional tatami rooms to retreat to after feasting or a lavish soak.
With the bar set incredibly high, this became the benchmark for subsequent hot spring ryokan experiences in Japan. So, naturally, being residents of the neighbouring Oita prefecture, Kurokawa Onsen was a first choice to spend our second Christmas in the country.
The Enduring Charm of Kurokawa Onsen: A Story of Preservation
Kurokawa Onsen’s history dates back to the Edo period (1603-1868). While it likely existed even before then, it was during this era that it really started to shine as a spot for weary travelers and locals to unwind after a long day’s work. Its remote setting also allowed the village to develop slowly, preserving the traditional charm that characterizes the area today. However, the mid-to-late 20th century presented a new challenge: Japan’s rapid modernization during the post-war recovery of the Showa era.
The encroachment of concrete and commercialization threatened the very essence of Kurokawa Onsen’s character. In response, local ryokan owners banded together and implemented a collaborative approach that prioritized maintaining the traditional village atmosphere and sustainable tourism practices.
They came up with a brilliant idea: the ‘onsen hopping’ system, with the nyūtō tegata (a wooden bathing pass). This pass lets guests explore and enjoy the baths of multiple ryokan, not just the one they’re staying at. This dedication proved remarkably successful – you can still feel that tranquil and traditional ambiance as you stroll through the village, just like we did.
Yamabiko’s Six Private Paradises: Our Onsen Journey
After a delightful stroll, we headed back to our inn for the main purpose of our visit: to soak in a bath. We knew there were six distinct baths, each with its unique layout and style. A quick glance at the illuminated signs was all it took to see which ones were free.
The “Romantic Bath”: I’m not entirely sure why this bath earned this name, but the glass mosaic certainly gave it a very retro, almost Taisho-era (1912-1926) feel. That period, famous as Japan’s “Jazz Age,” was known for its unique blend of traditional and Western influences. Perhaps that’s where the inspiration came from!
The Rock Bath: The lamp made this bath feel especially romantic, as if you were bathing right there in the heart of the mountains.
The Hallow Bath: This bath once had a turtle figure perched on its edge, which I distinctly remember from our last visit. Sadly, it was missing during our second stay.
The Sleeping Bath: A shallow, elongated bath designed for you to recline and drift into a “snooze bath” style of relaxation.
Standing Bath: This bathtub is 150 cm deep, allowing you to stand and remain submerged entirely (depending on your height, of course).
Hinoki Bath: Among the wonderful baths at Yamabiko, this hinoki bath became my favorite. We all have our ideal onsen experience. For me, it’s about finding that perfect balance of a deep soak, with a comfortable ledge to keep my upper body and legs exposed to the crisp air. This hinoki bath, with its built-in bench, offered just that. And with the windows framing the river scene, I could have stayed in there for hours.
A Taste of Kurokawa Onsen: Our Unexpected Christmas Eve Dinner
Dinner, well, it was a cozy array of convenience store snacks enjoyed right in our room. Unfortunately, both Jesse and I were battling a rather fierce cold, which had completely dampened our appetites. So, instead of a grand traditional meal at Yamabiko, we retreated to our comfy futons for an early night, hoping to catch some much-needed restorative rest. It wasn’t the gourmet experience we might have dreamed of. But sometimes, a quiet night in with simple comforts is exactly what you need when you’re under the weather.
Christmas Day Rejuvenation: Breakfast and More Baths
The next morning, we awoke feeling much better, our colds finally starting to retreat. We were more than ready for breakfast, which was served in our own separate, charming dining room. What awaited us was a beautifully presented spread of local dishes: delicate, fresh tofu, an assortment of tsukemono pickles, rice, a soft-boiled egg, and steamed vegetables.
We savored every bite, an authentic taste of local hospitality, before spending the rest of our Christmas Day relaxing in our room. And, of course, exploring the remaining private baths we hadn’t yet experienced. It was a perfectly serene and restorative holiday.
Our First Proper Kaiseki Dinner: A Feast of Local Delicacies
Following an afternoon of indulgent bathing, we settled into our private dining area, eager for our first proper dinner. We began the meal with a local Kumamoto delicacy: horse meat. While it wasn’t quite to my personal taste, the rest of the multi-course meal was truly exceptional.
Each dish, from sashimi to grilled fish and seasonal vegetables, was a work of art, bursting with fresh, local flavors. Thankfully, we hadn’t ordered lunch, and the dinner portion was more than generous.
Kurokawa Onsen’s Enchanting Winter Illuminations
After dinner, with a full belly and a sense of contentment, we ventured back out into the cool evening air. My mission: to capture the truly ethereal glow of the bamboo lanterns lining the Kurokawa River.
As dusk settled, they cast a soft, warm light onto the water and pathways, transforming the village into something out of a dream. It was a magical sight, definitely worth braving the chilly night.
Daytime Strolls and Soaks in Kurokawa Onsen
The next day, we decided to explore a bit more of Kurokawa, making a crucial stop for some much-needed coffee. The town is quite tiny, and with only a few shops open during this time of year, it’s clear this is a place designed for deep relaxation and, of course, bathing. We didn’t end up joining the famous “onsen hopping” with the wooden token, but we did find a lovely, relaxing foot bath by a public fireplace. My feet felt wonderfully (and refreshingly!) soggy afterwards, and it was the perfect way to unwind before heading back to our cozy inn.
A Memorable Encounter: Yamabiko’s Familiar Face
We’ve had different servers for each of our dinners, and tonight, a man in his late thirties was taking care of us. He had a quirky way of describing the dishes, almost like he was asking us, “Cook your meat in here and dip it in here?” or “This is sashimi?”
Eventually, he paused and asked if this was our first time at Yamabiko. “Yeah, we actually came here about three years ago,” we said, trying to recall, “March, I think?” His eyes lit up. “I thought so! I think I remember you from that time. You look familiar.” We were genuinely shocked, and in that moment, we started to think he looked familiar too! Maybe it was the power of suggestion, but either way, it felt incredibly special that he remembered us. We definitely told him we’d be back.
Farewell to Our Winter Wonderland
After another incredibly abundant meal, we returned to our room for one final, blissful bath. I think I took a grand total of nine baths that day! I remember falling into a deep, contented sleep almost immediately, only to awaken the next morning feeling utterly refreshed.
Our last breakfast and our room:
I completely forgot to take a picture of our room before we transformed it into our cozy little gerbil nest these past few days! It was overflowing with snacks, books, and all the little comforts we’d brought along. Oh well, despite our temporary “redecoration,” it was still a very nice room.
What a truly restorative and magical Christmas stay it was. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you all! Until next time.
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